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Discoloured patches on the wall and mould or mildew around windows and doors are all signs of water penetration.
If you can access the external wall, you should first check the state of the mortar course and then rake out any loose or defective mortar. Once clean and clear of debris, apply Concrex Vertical to fill any cracks and gaps, followed by the Masonry Waterproofer to prevent any further moisture getting in.
You should always damp proof the internal wall, however, in some cases where the wall is below ground level e.g. a basement, the internal wall may be your only option to take action. To protect the internal wall and prevent mould growth, use Dampguard Advanced. The water-based epoxy resin will produce a non-porous ‘breathable’ coating that allows the trapped moisture to escape as vapour.
Exposure to rainwater and weather conditions over long periods of time can cause porous concrete to absorb the water, which damages the metal reinforcements of the balcony and allows water to drip down underneath. As temperatures drop and then rise again, the freeze-thaw process of the water weakens the concrete, causing the unsightly water staining that you’re seeing.
A waterproofing coating, such as our Balcony Coating, will help to protect your balcony from water penetration and damage. To apply, start by cleaning the surface of grease, dust and any other contaminants, then mix together the components as per the instructions and apply the coating.
External walls are exposed to the elements so if you can spot deterioration or cracks, it is likely that water is penetrating the surface. Deep damages to external walls can be awkward to repair with the typical tools you might use in floor repairs.
In this case, we recommend pushing Concrex® Vertical mortar into the crack using a gloved hand and then trowel finish to smooth over the surface.
Yes, you can use Concrex Carbon Fibre to repair cracks in a damp floor. However, we do recommend that you use an adhesive primer, such as Tack Coat, first to create a stronger bond between the solution and the surface.
When you can spot bubbling and flaking in the plaster, it is because your internal walls are full of moisture which is caused by rising damp.
You can treat this with a damp proof course (DPC). Simply drill intermittent holes into the lower wall and then inject the product into those holes using a standard skeleton gun. The cream will then spread along the mortar course and link up where it has been applied into adjacent holes, creating a water repellent barrier.
Tanks containing oil or chemicals must legally be stored in a bunded area that is sealed and watertight. The bund is typically constructed with a solid concrete base and four walls to contain spillage if it were to occur. In order to select a sealer for your bunded area, you should consider both its resistance to chemicals and whether it can be applied to the whole structure (e.g. metal feet).
Our Bund Sealer is a two-part, thick epoxy resin that is reinforced with glass flakes to provide even greater resistance to chemical attack. Prior to application, repair any cracks to the bund’s surface. To apply the sealer, clean any contaminants from the surface then mix the components thoroughly and begin brushing onto the structure. One coat is usually enough to produce a watertight seal, however, a second coat should be applied for very porous surfaces.
To find out whether the darker patches on your concrete floor are caused by rising damp, lay a piece of polythene (about 1m2) on the floor and stick it down with some adhesive tape. If you can see moisture through the plastic after two or three days, it is likely to be rising damp.
If after a few days, the polythene has just misted over rather than showing signs of moisture, applying a two-part water-based epoxy resin from our Epoxy Gloss Coat range directly to the concrete will be enough to treat the very low level of damp.
However, if you can see beads of moisture under the polythene and the floor feels damp to the touch when you have completed the test, the damp is more severe. To protect the surface from damp, apply our Epoxy Damp Proof Membrane.Remember to check the surface after your first coat has dried and if there are any patches that have been missed, ensure to apply a second coat as damp can get through even the smallest area.
No, if you do try to paint directly onto the concrete, the damp will simply push the paint off, leading to a flaky mess that will require more time and money to fix. This is because the paint will not be able to grip onto the surface properly, therefore damp proofing products must be applied and allowed to dry prior to any painting.
To test for rising damp in your walls, you can start by cleaning the wall and ventilating the room or using dehumidifiers in the area. If the wall still feels damp to the touch after a few days, then it is likely that you do have rising damp.
Other signs you can look for include:
However, if you are still unsure after performing this test, we recommend that you seek a professional diagnosis from a surveyor or damp specialist before attempting to fix the issue yourself.
One of the greatest causes of damage to plant rooms is ruptured tanks or burst pipes which can cause severe damage to electrical equipment and control panels.
To protect your plant room, you must ensure to thoroughly waterproof them. For this, you will need a waterproof coating that is flexible enough to resist cracking that can be caused by structural movement in the building.
Our Plant Room Coating is a liquid formula which will flow around any equipment feet and pipes that protrude through the floor. This approach makes it both quicker and easier to achieve a watertight seal rather than measuring and cutting a sheet membrane to fit the space.
For added protection, you can also lay a strip of Fibreglass Reinforcing Tape along any expansion joints before applying the waterproof coating.
Concrete is porous and is therefore prone to absorbing and holding water.
Your floor should have a damp proof membrane (DPM) underneath it to prevent water from penetrating the surface, however, this can deteriorate over time.
Also, if your building is older (built prior to 1940) and does not have a DPM then water can penetrate the surface more easily and lead to rising damp.
Water penetration is a very common problem and can be caused by several different factors including mortar deterioration, masonry damage, broken roof tiles and even leaking gutters.
It can also be caused by more of a structural issue, for example, in older buildings where the brick or stonework has become more porous over time and is exposed to the elements.
Signs that water has got into the walls of your building include:
In areas with low level damp, our self-smoothing leveller, Flowtop, can be used to resurface a damaged, rough or tampered concrete floor.
However, under more severe circumstances, for example where rising damp is rising under sufficient pressure and there is evidence of standing water on the floor, you should apply Liquid WaterprooferA waterproofer can also be used to protect concrete floors in areas that are prone to flooding.
We recommend that you seek specialist advice before attempting to resurface any damp concrete floor to ensure you have selected the best product for your specific requirement for an effective and long-lasting repair.
Before applying the Liquid Waterproofer, ensure that your floor is free from grease, dust contaminants and that any surface damages have been repaired in advance and given ample time for drying. Upon applying the waterproofer, use a spiked roller to release any air bubbles and ensure an even coating across the surface for a high-quality finish.
No, the Liquid Waterproofer can also be used on walls and storage tanks, just make sure to mix the components to a thicker consistency so that your application remains precise and the product does not run down the vertical surface.
Yes, emulsion paint can be applied over the finished coating of Dampguard Advanced since it is microporous and therefore allows moisture vapour to escape from its surface.
White surface staining can be caused when the drilled holes are overfilled with the cream. To remove this, simply brush the excess product off of the wall when it has dried and then plug or paint over the drilled holes once the Damp Proof Course has been fully applied.